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In 2005, Bereziartu almost completely closed the gap with the strongest male climbers by climbing to grade 9a/9a+ when the world's hardest climb was at 9a+/9b. She is known for being the first-ever female in history to climb grade 8c (5.14b), 8c+ (5.14c), 9a (5.14d) and 9a/9a+ sport climbing routes. Bereziartu is also known for being the first-ever female in history to onsight 8a+ (5.13c), 8b (5.13d), and 8b+ (5.14a) graded routes. She was one of the first-ever females to solve bouldering problems at 8A (V11) and above.
Josune Bereziartu was born on January 19, 1972, in Lazkao, a Basque town of the province of Gipuzkoa, northern Spain. Josune was first inspired to climb after watching a Spanish TV show documenting two girls climbing in the Verdon Gorge, and started climbing at 17.
In 1998, Bereziartu came to international attention with her repeat of Honky Tonky at Oñate, which made her the first-ever female in history to climb an 8c (5.14b) route. In 1999, she consolidated this achievement by repeating 8c routes White Zombie and Ras at Baltzola. In 2000, Bereziartu set a new record by becoming the first-ever female in history to climb 8c+ (5.14c) when she redpointed Honky Tonk Mix at Oñate. In October 2002, she set another record by becoming the world's first-ever female climber to climb a 9a (5.14d) route, when she redpointed Fred Nicole's Bain de Sang [fr] in St Loup, Switzerland. In 2004, she climbed Logical Progression in Japan, another 9a (5.14d) route that was only freed a few years earlier by Dai Koyamada. In May 2005, she set a further record, becoming the first-ever female to climb 9a/9a+ when she redpointed Bimbaluna in St Loup, in Switzerland; at that time, no male climber had broken the 9b (5.15b) grade barrier, and it would be another three years until Chris Sharma would climb Jumbo Love, the world's first consenus 9b route.
Bereziartu also set new records for onsight ascents. In 2000, she made the first-ever female onsight of an 8a+ (5.13c) route in history when she climbed Bon Vintage at Terradets in Spain. In 2002 she made the first-ever female onsight of an 8b (5.13d) route in history when she climbed Steroid Performance at Horai in Japan. Finally, in 2006, she made the first-ever female onsight of an 8b+ (5.14a) route in history when she climbed Hidrofobia in Montsant, Spain.
In 1999, Bereziartu wedded her long-term climbing partner, Rikar Otegui, who himself climbs to 8b+ (5.14a). Bereziartu was not always a full-time professional climber, and during the week, Bereziartu sold insurance and investments for a Spanish insurance company, Mapfre in the early 2000s. In addition, Bereziartu designed resin holds to sell for indoor climbing walls.
On the morning of November 25, Bayes Wilder went to Cova Gran, Santa Linya, and sent La Fabelita, a 25-meter 5.14b. That afternoon, the family drove to Cova Soleiada, Margalef, and Bayes clipped the chains on another 14b, Mistic. For good measure, he then finished the day with a flash of Dr. Feelgood (5.13b).
Bayes has been climbing since he was 2, when he first started hanging on the homewall that his dad, Matt Wilder, built. Wilder is a former pro himself, who has climbed up to V14 and 5.14d (The Fly, in Rumney, New Hampshire).
He sent the route on his third day, fifth try (seventh if you count his two romps up Ultra-Perm), making him possibly the youngest climber ever to send 5.14c. Ashima Shiraishi sent the same route at age 11 in 2012.
Alex Huber may be the first man to have climbed 5.15a, now that his Open Air in Schleierwasserfall, Austria, given 5.14d, was uprated by Adam Ondra, who made the second ascent in 2008. In 2004, Huber free-soloed the Communist (5.14a), also at Schleierwasserfall.
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With Kate busy, the neighbor Gregory helps watch Jack while Toby attempts the repair. Gregory suggests Toby call someone useful for help. Toby doesn't want to ask Miguel, despite his construction background, because he doesn't want to "send up the Pearson bat signal" and have to spend the day talking about, then crying about, then talking about crying about his feelings. Comical meta line alert!
Kevin and Nicky attend a screening of the Jordan Martin Foster movie. When it ends, Foster beams about Kevin's performance and the film. Kevin says it's a work of art. But afterward, he frantically calls his agent and says it's awful. Kevin's team agrees; it's unwatchable and threatens Kevin's career. Kevin orders an emergency meeting with his team to book a new project.
Two children wake up in the middle of the night to find their father is missing, and all the windows and doors in their home have vanished. To cope with the strange situation, the two bring pillows & blankets to the living room and settle into a quiet slumber party. They play well worn videotapes of cartoons to fill the silence of the house and distract from the frightening and inexplicable situation. All the while in the hopes that eventually some grown-ups will come to rescue them. However, after a while it becomes clear that something is watching over them.
In 2003, Berthod removed the old green-painted bolts from an overhanging thin crack in the Orco Valley in Italy and free-climbed it with clean gear. Green Spit (spit meaning bolts), became one of the first 5.14 trad routes. Berthod then toured the world red-pointing hard trad routes, but is perhaps best known for his exploits in Squamish.
In 2005, he spent two months trying Cobra Crack in a campaign recorded in the video, First Ascent. Berthod failed, injured himself and returned to Switzerland. The first ascent was made later by Sonnie Trotter at 5.14. 2b1af7f3a8